Cosmétotextiles : à la recherche d’ingrédients innovants

Anaïs_MirvalAnalyst Insight by Anais Mirval – Ingredients Analyst

The concept of cosmetotextiles nothing new. In the late 80s, Japan was already marketing low cyclodextrin containing capsules with perfume. And it was in 1995 Hermes launched on the European market in which a scarf had been encapsulated Calèche their fragrance.

Today, apart from Japan whose economy is in decline, there is a low demand for cosmetic textiles. Before that demand increases, that would require ingredient manufacturers can demonstrate their efficiency and sustainability. This can be complicated since various factors such as technology, cosmetic, maintenance and clothing must be taken into account to evaluate opportunities.

Although cosmetotextiles provide access to innovations such as self-tanning swimwear to avoid tan lines, this sector should remain a niche for producers of ingredients; and unless their effectiveness can not be proven and proposed no additional cost to the consumer.

Few categories of the ready-to-wear may put forward allegations cosmetics

Luxury launches jeans and lingerie presented the cosmetotextiles in the spotlight in 2012 and 2013. Indeed, major companies in the ready-to-wear explore cosmetotextiles to introduce a dimension of luxury to their products and / or create a differentiation from their competitors.

However, the development of cosmetic textiles should be confined to certain categories of clothing especially those in direct and prolonged contact with skin. Since ready-to-wear manufacturers charge extra when they add a feature to a cosmetic product, categories of products best suited to the introduction of cosmetic textiles can be identified by their future growth.

Forecast Performance of Selected Apparel Categories 2012-2017


Source: Euromonitor International

“Personalization” is the main trend in cosmetics that will determine which types of ingredients will be favored in cosmetotextiles. The allegations related to specific parts of the body are also particularly suitable for the incorporation of cosmetic textiles. The volume growth of cosmetics categories will determine the types of features that will be in high demand.

Forecast Performance of Selected Beauty and Personal Care Categories 2012-2017


Source: Euromonitor International

Bit distribution systems for many ingredients

There are three main ways of incorporating an ingredient in textile fibers: by chemical reaction, absorption and encapsulation. Microencapsulation technology ensures the most lasting effect by slow diffusion, and thereby guarantees satisfactory performance. The microcapsules protect the assets of the environment and release occurs in specific circumstances: when a break by friction or pressure, during a change in pH, temperature or the presence of water.

Lipotec markets Quiosel ®, lipid vesicles intended for cosmetic textiles. The company chose to encapsulate ingredients with anti-aging properties, firming, moisturizing and slow down hair regrowth. Thus, a wide range of ingredients can be encapsulated if it is in line with consumer demand.

Forecast Performance of Selected Selected Ingredients in Beauty and Personal Care Categories 2012-2017


Source: Euromonitor International

Lipotec says that thanks to its similarities with biological membranes, Quiosels® has more affinity with the skin with the textile fibers, which facilitates the transfer of assets. This is a new parameter to be taken into account to evaluate the effectiveness of a distribution system.

The cleaning products are a threat

The effectiveness of cosmetotextiles over time is affected by the action of detergents during washing. Most detergents destroy substances or capsules integrated into the textile. Surfactants, bleach, washing process and temperature can destroy the substances or capsules.

It is also crucial to take into account the recent development of enzymes during the selection of the encapsulation system. Indeed, many detergents contain proteases and to a lesser extent, amylases, cellulases, mannanases and lipases. To protect cosmetotextiles, encapsulation systems should not be protein-based and therefore the most suitable systems in North America, Western Europe and Japan should rather include capsules based on cellulose or lipid vesicles.

Breakdown of Enzyme Laundry Detergents Types in 2012


Source: Euromonitor International

Although in the short term, sales of cosmetic textiles should stagnate at a low level, the ingredients producers can expect that assets providing hydration, anti-aging, brightening and self-tanning are sought by the the ready-to-wear industry. However, there is no reason to be enthusiastic. This demand could dwindle when the clothing industry realize that the average consumer is still concerned about the value and that for the few consumers can afford the splurge, efficiency is always a concern.

Two concurrent strategies should be implemented to ensure that sales of ingredients in cosmetic textiles increases: clothing producers should reduce their profits and offer cosmetotextiles no additional cost and ingredient producers should ensure that the best distribution systems are available. Otherwise, the cosmetotextiles remain a niche and premium feature.